What to See and Do in Gdansk, Poland: A Guide to Exploring This Baltic Gem
In 2018, we took a trip to Poland. We weren’t supposed to travel to Poland that year, it wasn’t a part of our original travel plans. Yet everything, and I mean everything, changed that March. Early that month, Kevin’s mom passed away from cancer. We knew it was coming, but knowing that didn’t soften the blow. She went into hospice pretty quickly and thinking we had a lot more time, we had booked a trip several months prior with Kevin’s cousin to Lithuania and Barcelona.
After the funeral, we discussed it, and while we were really in no mood to travel, everything was already booked and we figured it would be better than sitting at home grieving. Fate had other plans.
Instead of paying an exorbitant amount to board our dog for the two weeks that we would be in Europe, I asked my dad if he would watch Gertie. I knew my mom wouldn’t be overjoyed by having a dog in the house that long, but he convinced her and it was decided that we would spend Easter in Cleveland and drop the dog off (I think they were also excited by the fact that they would get to see us again when we came to pick her up). On our first night in Cleveland, we went out to a restaurant. Conversation turned to our upcoming trip and my dad expressed his excitement for us. Shockingly, he told me he would like to take a heritage trip to Poland the next year. I couldn’t believe it. He had never shown any interest in going to Europe before and I was so excited at the prospect of planning that trip. That night, we stayed up late and unlike the family conversations that were prevalent at the time, we did not fight about politics and just played good music and enjoyed each other’s company.
The next morning, I sat with my dad and had breakfast, both of us a bit hungover. A few hours later, Kevin and I decided to get some lunch. A few minutes after we left, I got a call from my mom. My dad had collapsed and the ambulance was on its way. We drove straight to the hospital, where we had to wait an anxious 30 minutes before hearing from the doctor. They had tried to revive him not only in the ambulance but for awhile in the ER. It was a severe stroke and there was nothing else they could do. We were beyond devastated. I had never felt anything like this before.
Three weeks after planning Kevin’s mother’s funeral, we had one for my dad. I remember vividly being in the car on the way back to Chicago, where we planned to pick up clothes and head right back to Cleveland, with Kevin on the phone with the airlines and Airbnb, cancelling our Lithuania and Spain trip. They needed a death certificate to give us full refunds, so not only did we have to deal with two family tragedies, we also had to get a death certificate to get our stupid refund for our Wizz Air flights. It was all too much.
I could go on and on about that time of our lives, and I probably will in another post. To be truthful, losing our parents three weeks apart has a lot to do with our current philosophies on travel and how it can enrich your life. And our never ending FOMO.
But that is for another time. You are here for Gdansk recommendations!
Top Things to do in Gdansk, Poland
After a few months of total hell, we decided to try again in August. We were able to convince some other family members and friends to join, and traveled first to Lithuania and then to Poland (I felt I had to go, especially after that conversation with my dad from the night before he passed). After visiting Krakow, we left some of our group and, along with Kevin’s dad, rented a car and drove from Warsaw to Gdansk for a few nights. My friend Kelly, who lived in Abu Dhabi at the time, decided to join us as well.
Gdansk is located on the northern tip of Poland and right on the Baltic Sea. A long time port town, Gdansk feels more international than other places we visited in Poland. It has also claimed the title of “Amber Capital of the World” with amber being mined in the area going all the way back to 8000 BC. Here are our favorite things to do on a short trip to Gdansk:
Visit St. Mary’s Church and Climb the Bell Tower
The massive structure that holds the Basilica of St. Mary’s takes up a large portion of the Old Town and has over 30 chapels. Visitors can climb the church tower’s 405 steps for a panoramic view of the city below. Yet my favorite part was the 15th century astronomical clock designed by Hans Duringer. Aside from showing the time and date, the clock also shows the calendar of saints, the phases of the moon and the sun and moon in relation to the zodiac. It’s really impressive to see up close and worth a stop in to the church. It was taken away and hidden during World War II and luckily almost all of the pieces were recovered after the fighting was over.
Take a Stroll Through the Old Town
The Old Town of Gdansk is a lively mix of restaurants, shops and picturesque buildings. It’s easy to get lost walking around the various streets. The Old Town is also home to several museums that are worth a visit, including the Museum of Amber and the National Maritime Museum.
Eat all the Polish Delicacies
While the menus in Gdansk maintain a Polish standard (heavy meat and potatoes), the proximity to the sea also gave way to many interesting fish items to choose from, including Baltic salmon and herring. All throughout our trip to Lithuania and Poland, we were so impressed with the quality and variety of soups, with everything from borscht to sour soup with horseradish. Here are our suggestions on where to eat in Gdansk:
Familia Bistro Garbary - we enjoyed our first lunch in Gdansk here and gorged ourselves on their specialty - baked and crusted pierogies.
Gdanski Bowke - potato pancakes, fish and the Bigos - traditional Polish stew - were the highlights
Brovarnia Gdansk - Located in the Hotel Gdansk, we all chose meat options. I ordered the pork schnitzel, Ken ordered the duck and Kevin got the pork hock baked in beer with fried cabbage.
Shop on Mariacka - the Amber Street
Tucked on a cute cobblestone street in the heart of Old Town is Mariacka, the amber shopping street. When we were there, vendors had little stands set up outside of each shop, showcasing their best items. I’ve always loved the look and style of amber jewelry, so I was in heaven. I got a new ring and bracelet and was also able to pick up some gifts for relatives there.
See Gdansk from the Water with a Boat Rental
The weather was gorgeous when we were in Gdansk, and with pretty much everything being affordable in Poland, we decided to rent a boat for a few hours. It was easy to find a boat rental right on the Motlawa river and we were able to take the boat up the water until it reached the Baltic. Granted, when we got close to the Baltic, it was a bit more industrial with all of the commercial boats, but the view closer to the Old Town was a delight and we were surprised at how much new construction there was. It reminded us of a scene from a canal in Amsterdam.
Take a Day Trip to Sopot
Located only a half hour drive from Gdansk, this town on the sea is a popular summer destination for Polish citizens and was a wonderful place to spend an afternoon. We were able to find parking easily and made our way over to the boardwalk, where we rented bikes for a few hours. Riding up and down the coast, we got to experience the breathtaking views of the Baltic and the longest wooden pier in Europe. The Sofitel Grand Hotel looks straight out of a Wes Anderson movie and we highly recommend having a drink in their lux bar.