How to Spend a Day in Quaint Kinsale, Ireland
Nestled into a cozy harbor where the River Bandon meets the sea is Kinsale, Ireland. The small town on the southern edge of County Cork is bursting with history. Centuries of battles and tragedies, including the sinking of the Lusitania, have dotted the shoreline of this small fishing village. The residents understand the importance that their home has had on their country’s past, as with the Battle of Kinsale in 1601, when war was raging between the English, who occupied Ireland at the time, and the Spanish, who landed at the harbor that year and were aided unsuccessfully by Irish troops.
Things to Do in Kinsale
After attending a family wedding in Dingle, Kevin and I made our way around the Ring of Kerry, stopping briefly in Kenmare before landing in Kinsale for a few nights. One could sense that Kinsale thrives in the summer, when warm breezes blow in from the harbor and the winding streets are alight with tourists. Yet in late March, over the Easter weekend, it was relatively quiet with only a handful of shops and restaurants open.
Walking Tour with Barry Moloney
On our first full day there, we began with an informative walking tour given by Barry Moloney - a local guide. The stroll was roughly an hour and a half and a wonderful way to learn about the town from both a historic and modern perspective.
Charles Fort
Later in the afternoon, we drove to nearby Charles Fort, an Irish heritage tourism site that was completed in 1682. The views from the fort were stunning and we even stumbled upon a wedding photo shoot.
Where to Eat in Kinsale
I am so happy that the preconceptions of Irish food have been overtaken throughout the last decade with fact: Ireland has wonderful food and brilliant chefs.
Fishy Fishy
When asking locals for restaurant recommendations, Fishy Fishy, a modern seafood restaurant in central Kinsale, topped the list. The modern decor is a stark contrast to the cozy vibe found in many traditional Irish pubs and restaurants, but we found it refreshing and stylish, the perfect place to enjoy a glass of white wine and a fresh seafood platter.
The Black Pig
The intimate and affordable Mediterranean wine bar seemed like a neighborhood place we would frequent in Chicago and was perfect for sharing a few small plates.
Jim Edwards
Craving tradition on one of our last meals in Ireland, we found it here in the form of fish and chips. This cozy spot has been open since 1971 and offers a wide variety of modern Irish cuisine.
Where to Stay in Kinsale
Trident Hotel
If you are adventurous and have the chance to stay at the Trident Hotel while in Kinsale, a beautiful waterfront property with incredible views of the harbor, try to grab a late night drink at the second floor bar. The main bar was closed when we returned from dinner, and since it seemed we were two of very few guests staying at hotel at the time, we had the room to ourselves. Wine was drunk and Van Morrison was played on our phones while strange noises filtered about and lights flickered, leading us to believe that the hotel was indeed haunted.
While Kevin stayed at the hotel to catch up on work on our last afternoon, I wandered into the open shops looking for gifts for family and friends. A conversation soon commenced, as it so often does in Ireland, with the proprietor of a wool sweater shop. When learning I was from Chicago and that Kevin’s relatives were from the south side, he asked the typical question: “What parish?” It turned out that he had relatives who went to the same church as Kevin’s family and that he had married a Gallivan from Ballyferriter, so they were probably distant relatives through marriage. We would later find out that Kevin’s cousin had the same exact conversation with this man when she visited Kinsale a year later, another of the endless examples of strange connections we have made when traveling.